Introduction
Welcome back to the world of sewing! If you’ve joined us before, you might remember “Sew It Good Part One,” where we laid the groundwork for sewing success. We explored the essentials, from thread selection and basic machine operation to mastering fundamental stitches. If you’re new, welcome! This is the next step on your creative journey. Part two of “Sew It Good” is designed to build on your existing knowledge, taking your skills beyond the basics. We’ll be focusing on techniques that allow you to create more complex, professional-looking garments and projects. Get ready to elevate your sewing prowess!
This guide will delve into three key areas: understanding fabric manipulation, mastering essential finishing techniques, and the art of accurate pattern reading and adjustment. Each section offers practical advice, step-by-step instructions, and helpful tips to enhance your sewing journey. Let’s get started and sew something truly amazing!
A Quick Refresher from Part One (Optional)
For those new to the series or needing a quick refresher, we explored essential machine setup, learned the key stitches, and tackled fabric selection and basic seam finishes. Knowing how to thread your machine correctly and knowing how to stitch a simple seam is critical. Remember too, taking the time to practice is crucial for solidifying fundamental skills. Now, we’re ready to level up!
Fabric Manipulation: Shaping and Shaping the Fabric
Fabric manipulation is a cornerstone of creating well-fitted, stylish garments. It involves techniques that allow you to shape and control the fabric, creating the desired silhouette and adding dimension. We’ll start with two crucial techniques: gathering and creating pleats and tucks.
Gathering
Gathering is a technique used to create fullness in a garment, often used for skirts, sleeves, and other areas where you want a softer, more flowing look. It’s achieved by drawing up the fabric along a stitched line.
How to Gather
First, use your machine to sew two parallel rows of long, loose stitches along the edge of the fabric you want to gather. Use a long stitch length (e.g., 4-5mm). Don’t backstitch at either end. Then, using the bobbin threads (the underside), gently pull on them, allowing the fabric to bunch up along the stitch line. Distribute the gathers evenly along the desired length, and then pin them to the corresponding piece of fabric. Sew the gathered piece to the other piece, sewing within the original gathering stitches so that they won’t show. Once you are sure about the seam, remove the original gathering stitches.
Tips for Gathering
Use a contrasting thread color for your gathering stitches so that they are easier to remove. Avoid pulling the threads too tightly, as this can break them or damage the fabric. Experiment with different gathering ratios to achieve the desired level of fullness.
A Practical Example
Imagine you’re sewing a skirt with a gathered waist. By gathering the skirt fabric, you create a beautiful, flowing shape that looks far more elegant than a flat, straight piece of fabric. This is a simple but hugely effective technique!
Pleats and Tucks
Pleats and tucks are controlled folds in fabric that add structure, detail, and visual interest to garments. Pleats are wider folds that are usually pressed in place, while tucks are narrower folds that are stitched down.
Creating Pleats
Decide on the depth and spacing of your pleats. Mark the pleat lines on your fabric using pins or a fabric marker. Fold the fabric along the marked lines, creating the pleats. Press the pleats firmly to set them in place, and then secure them with pins or hand stitches before sewing. Sew the pleats in place by sewing along the edge of the pleat, ensuring that your seam is straight.
Creating Tucks
Mark the tuck lines on your fabric. Fold the fabric along the tuck lines and then press the fold. Stitch the tucks in place by sewing along the fold. Vary the depth of your tucks to create interesting patterns and textures.
Tips for Pleats and Tucks
Practice pleating and tucking on scrap fabric first to get the hang of it. Consider the type of fabric you’re using when choosing pleat or tuck styles. Heavier fabrics are better for larger pleats, while lighter fabrics work well with tucks. Always press your pleats or tucks carefully.
Mastering Essential Finishing Techniques: Giving Your Projects a Professional Look
Once your garment or project is constructed, the finishing touches determine the final result’s quality and longevity. Knowing the right techniques makes a huge difference in a sewists project.
Seam Finishes: Protecting Edges
Seam finishes are crucial for preventing fraying and extending the life of your garments. They also add a professional touch.
Overlocking (Serging)
An overlocker, or serger, uses multiple threads to stitch and cut the fabric edges simultaneously. It creates a clean, durable finish, perfect for knit fabrics and fabrics prone to fraying. If you do not have an overlocker, it is important to choose seam finishes based on the fabric.
Zigzag Stitch
A simple but effective method for finishing seams. Sew a zigzag stitch along the raw edges of your fabric. Trim away any excess fabric close to the zigzag stitch.
French Seams
A sophisticated seam finish where you enclose the raw edges within the seam. Sew the fabric wrong sides together, then trim the seam allowance. Fold the fabric right sides together, enclosing the raw edges, and sew a second seam. This is great for sheer or delicate fabrics.
Flat-Felled Seams
Often found in jeans and other durable garments, flat-felled seams involve folding the raw edges towards one side, then topstitching them in place. This finish is sturdy, and creates a nice finish.
Tips for Seam Finishes
Choose the appropriate seam finish based on your fabric type, the garment’s style, and how much stress the seams will endure. Always trim excess seam allowance after finishing.
Hemming: Creating a Clean Edge
Hemming provides a clean, finished edge to your garment or project.
Blind Hem
A nearly invisible hem made with a special stitch on your sewing machine or by hand. Best for skirts, pants, and other garments where you want the hem to be inconspicuous.
Rolled Hem
Create a very narrow, rolled edge. You can do this by using a rolled hem foot or by hand. This is very popular for scarves and delicate fabrics.
Double-Fold Hem
The most common type, where the fabric is folded twice to enclose the raw edge.
Tips for Hemming
Measure your hem accurately. Press the hem before sewing. Use a thread color that matches the fabric for a seamless finish. Consider the fabric type and the desired look when choosing your hem style.
Accurate Pattern Reading and Adjustment: Tailoring Your Creations
Sewing a garment that fits well begins with understanding and adapting sewing patterns. Learning this will change how you sew!
Deciphering Pattern Information
Understanding the information on a sewing pattern is crucial.
Pattern Pieces
Identify the different pattern pieces and their purpose. Read the instructions, and use them to cut out the fabric pieces accurately.
Seam Allowances
Understand seam allowances and how they work. (Usually included in patterns). You should always pay attention to this when measuring your garment!
Notations
Learn to read and understand the symbols, notches, and grainlines marked on the pattern pieces. These markings are essential for proper fabric placement, construction, and aligning pattern pieces.
Tips for Deciphering Patterns
Practice reading and following pattern instructions. Look up any sewing terms or symbols you don’t understand. Always double-check your pattern pieces to make sure they align correctly.
Making Pattern Adjustments
Pattern adjustments are essential for achieving a great fit. Our bodies are all different, and patterns often need to be tweaked.
Length Adjustments
Lengthen or shorten pattern pieces at designated adjustment lines, often found on pattern pieces like sleeves, bodice, and pant legs.
Width Adjustments
Adjust the width of a pattern piece at the bust, waist, hips, or shoulders. You can do this by adding or subtracting fabric at the side seams.
Fitting the Torso
Always measure yourself accurately and compare these measurements to the pattern’s size chart before cutting. When fitting a garment, work on a muslin first so you don’t damage the material.
Tips for Pattern Adjustments
Take accurate body measurements. Practice pattern adjustments on inexpensive fabric before adjusting your good fabric. Research the most common pattern adjustments for your body type.
Materials and Tools Checklist
- Sewing machine with a variety of stitch settings.
- Scissors and rotary cutter (and cutting mat).
- Pins and needles.
- Measuring tape.
- Iron and ironing board.
- Fabric marker or tailor’s chalk.
- Various threads.
- Seam ripper (it happens!)
- Fabric scraps for practice.
- Optional: Overlocker, specialty feet (rolled hem foot, etc.)
Sew It Good: Bringing It All Together
By mastering fabric manipulation, essential finishing techniques, and pattern reading, you’re well on your way to creating garments that fit beautifully and look professional. Now go forth and practice these techniques! The best way to learn is to get hands on.
Call to Action and Conclusion
We’ve covered a lot in this part of “Sew It Good!” Remember, practice is the key. The more you sew, the more confident and skilled you will become. Experiment with these techniques on different fabrics and projects. Try making simple projects that feature the techniques that you just learned, such as a gathered skirt or a shirt with pleats! If you make anything using the techniques outlined in this article, please feel free to share your creations! Let us know in the comments below which technique you’re most excited to try, or what sewing projects you want to tackle next! We’re always here to help guide you on your sewing journey. Sewing is truly a skill that will stay with you and help you to make many new garments and projects for years to come! Happy sewing!
